Hi guys. Can you change the dizzy cap rotor arm for an electronic ignition? Will it boost horsepower? 10-15bhp???
Hi guys. Can you change the dizzy cap rotor arm for an electronic ignition? Will it boost horsepower? 10-15bhp???
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The distributor cap and rotor arm can be changed on an ST205 yes. No it will not boost horsepower – although it will restore horsepower that you will have lost if these parts are worn. Do your spark plugs and HT leads at the same time for maximum benefits.
Unless you running stupid hp it’s unnecessary! , stock toyota items are best, I run 500 od no issues and won’t be changing even when remapped to 6 odd
I have it done on my gt four
Yes as stated above I should add – ONLY use OEM for these ignition components, they are the best for pretty much all applications.
Relatively simple, you would need an aftermarket ecu that caters for this, a trigger wheel, crank position sensor, and individual coil packs from memory that’s about it, it’s more efficient than the distributor providing it’s done right plus It removes a common service part.
There is a white 185 on ebay with a 185 rev 3 engine and emerald k6 ecu that’s ditched the distributor for electronic ignition
you can use the distributor as crank/cam sensor, just remove the rotor and rotorcap. then you need coilpacks, iginiters and a standalone ecu (Link G4 or something)
Errrrrrm a gt4 power fc wouldn’t work but not sure about a supra one, I didn’t know supras were individual coil packs lol
1zz coils , ls1 coils , suitable igniters , a trigger wheel , and a suitable ecu like the link .
Not 100% simple bolt on but not impossible
I used a wasted spark set up
Depends what your goals are really.
Might consider this one day, although it’s not really an issue for most people as @John says, I am running 530bhp on the stock ignition system with no issues.
Does anyone know if the Motec M4 can run electronic ignition?
I have a G-Reedy ECU ultimate? Would that work? How much BHP upgrade we looking and price?
Thanks
unlikely @Clayton, i dont think its a question of giving you extra power it allows things to be done more efficiently, i dont know enough about it really to comment lol im sure someone who knows more about it than me will comment soon.
I doubt the Greddy E-Manage would be able to do it as its only a piggy back not a full ecu, but you never know. It shouldn’t directly give you any more power. Why are you looking at it/what are your goals?
Just heard its better for car. What’s thoughts on the Greddy ultimate??? I get a bit paranoid with whats good for car. And saying its not a full ECU makes me think its inferior.
It will be limited in comparison to a full standalone ecu, but they still are good piggybacks ecu’s
Its still a decent upgrade over a stock ecu, but doesn’t give you the level of control and options you get with a stand-alone ecu like a Motec/Link/Haltech/Syveks etc etc.
A piggy-back ecu basically adjusts the signal being sent from the sensors on the car to the stock ecu. It fools the stock ecu into thinking its reading different figures. They are fine and better than stock as at least you get some level of control, but a full stand-alone is better
By the sounds of where you are with the car I really wouldn’t think about electronic ignition, it will just cost you a fair bit of money that is better spent elsewhere and you are unlikely to notice any difference.
it is Oli Horwood – Because of the age of these cars gains can be made just by replacing the old OEM components with genuine parts. After that you’re good for well over 300bhp,
More than that, stock ignition system is good for double that
the stock ignition system is more than capable of sustaining silly amounts of power, but where is the fun in leaving things alone lol.
Always fun to play with stuff, but it’s definitely something that should be towards the tail end of the mod list
thing is not too may people have done away with it and had comparison results to show, other way you can look at it is a minor weight saving lol
Going off subject but what cheap mods are out there. Had the car 4 years now its 283bhp at mo. But everything now seems ridiculous. (Turbo ect)
What mods have you got so far? Stock turbo is capable of a fair bit more than that with the right supporting mods
FMIC, ECU, 3 inch straight through exhaust, Decat, electronic boost controller, filter, dump valve,
Looking at putting battery in boot and creating a cold air box at front.
What boost are you running? With those mods you ought to see 300bhp at least. Stick up a pick of your engine bay if you can
0.9 bar
But needs a remap caus the exhaust was done after the ECU was mapped.
£200 to remap it.
That’ll be why, you should be able to turn it up to more like 1.2 bar with your mods and you’ll probably see another 30bhp
0.9 bar is very low, that’s basically standard boost
Thanks
Yeah goin for a apexi cone with cold air feeding from bottom. Want a aluminium tube to bend round
I would prefer that 219HP curve. lol. And that’s around 1.1bar according to your sheet