Honestly the power of teh system itself is weak. I often find myself maxing out the volume knob and i’m no where near satisfied with the volume even then. Theres no distortion even at max volume, so thats good I guess… but still.
I feel like adding a sub would be easy since you could tap the sub’s input with an LC2i (I assume) for a signal… but adding more power (perhaps better quality speakers as well) to the 4 doors seems like it may be a huge undertaking to get a clean signal for them from the factory HU?
The system is underpowered by default. They don’t want warranty claims all over. The radio distorts at about 33 level. I just tuned my sub yesterday and found the distortion point about that area.
I did tap into the real sub, but the factory radio rolls the bass down after about 33 volume and you lose power. I’m going to tap into the rear speakers at a later point to see if this helps, or get a better signal processor than the one I have.
@Kenneth, taping into the rear or front speakers should help. There was a guy that installed an MS-8 processor, and with the sub wires hooked up, he got a ton of distortion. Once those were taken out of play, everything cleaned up.
ohh okay so this is just an LOC. The LC2i I’ve used in the past somehow actually cleans up the signal, not sure how, or if its effective, but i remember it being marketed specifically to save from roll off.
Either way if i’m gonna do the whole system, I’m gonna go for a processor that can handle it all in one unit.
IF anyone’s got schematics for the factory BEATS or can tell me where to find them I’d love to understand where all of the factory amp(s) are and what can be done to get clean signals from the factory HU etc.
The woofer is on the right in a custom box down firing. Has a powerbass xma 800 amp. The rest of the system is Beats factory. Has pretty good bass. Not over loud.
Not that I should have expected this to be cheap… but so far I’m coming up with the following combinations:
Kenwood eXcelon XR600-6DSP. This is a 6 channel amp, What I dont know is if its best to do a component set up front, coax in the rear doors, leave the factory D pillar speakers, and use the final 2 channels of the amp for a decent sub…
For it to work will need: iDatalink Maestro AR Amplifier Replacement Module and the specific harness for the Durango: iDatalink HRN-AR-CH2 Harness.
The signal processor it seems is integrated into the Amp, which is the reason its not cheap but it at least eliminates the need for an addtional processor.
Following. Been wanting to add another sub/amp and possibly an amp for the highs
I added a sub in the trunk. Factory 8″ was not enough.
Honestly the power of teh system itself is weak. I often find myself maxing out the volume knob and i’m no where near satisfied with the volume even then. Theres no distortion even at max volume, so thats good I guess… but still.
I feel like adding a sub would be easy since you could tap the sub’s input with an LC2i (I assume) for a signal… but adding more power (perhaps better quality speakers as well) to the 4 doors seems like it may be a huge undertaking to get a clean signal for them from the factory HU?
The system is underpowered by default. They don’t want warranty claims all over. The radio distorts at about 33 level. I just tuned my sub yesterday and found the distortion point about that area.
I did tap into the real sub, but the factory radio rolls the bass down after about 33 volume and you lose power. I’m going to tap into the rear speakers at a later point to see if this helps, or get a better signal processor than the one I have.
@Kenneth what signal processor do you have? I was told that the LC2i was supposed to correct for the ‘roll off’?
It’s pretty basic honestly. Worth the small pocket change but not much to help the roll off.
@Kenneth, taping into the rear or front speakers should help. There was a guy that installed an MS-8 processor, and with the sub wires hooked up, he got a ton of distortion. Once those were taken out of play, everything cleaned up.
ohh okay so this is just an LOC. The LC2i I’ve used in the past somehow actually cleans up the signal, not sure how, or if its effective, but i remember it being marketed specifically to save from roll off.
Either way if i’m gonna do the whole system, I’m gonna go for a processor that can handle it all in one unit.
IF anyone’s got schematics for the factory BEATS or can tell me where to find them I’d love to understand where all of the factory amp(s) are and what can be done to get clean signals from the factory HU etc.
I had them let me see if they are still in my phone.
@Kenneth PM you with my email/phone if you’d rather text em’ for ease.
@Kevin no prob.
This schematic works well for tapping into the rear sub. It’s actually from my charger but the system is the same.
I totally want paying attention that this was the Durango forum.
The woofer is on the right in a custom box down firing. Has a powerbass xma 800 amp. The rest of the system is Beats factory. Has pretty good bass. Not over loud.
what’d u use for the signal? LOC? Tapped from?
This amp did not need a separate loc. Just used the beats sub wires.
so an amp with line level inputs. i see.
Yes
Not that I should have expected this to be cheap… but so far I’m coming up with the following combinations:
Kenwood eXcelon XR600-6DSP. This is a 6 channel amp, What I dont know is if its best to do a component set up front, coax in the rear doors, leave the factory D pillar speakers, and use the final 2 channels of the amp for a decent sub…
For it to work will need: iDatalink Maestro AR Amplifier Replacement Module and the specific harness for the Durango: iDatalink HRN-AR-CH2 Harness.
The signal processor it seems is integrated into the Amp, which is the reason its not cheap but it at least eliminates the need for an addtional processor.
Is that an amp and signal processor in one?
do most of you swap the amp/processor for better quality and leave the factory speakers or also replace those?