The best tool for this job is an impact hammer otherwise known as a rattle gun. These will remove all but the most stubborn bolts in rapid time and save hours of work. They are not expensive either.
yes because underneath an MR2 almost everything is seized solid. So a tin of Plus Gas and a rattle gun will save hours of arsing around with a wrecking bar and a scaffold pole!
The crank bolt is the toughest job on any car. The torque is about 150lb/ft if I remember rightly. You can get lorry-size rattle guns taking 1 inch sockets but you would rarely need them in a weekend workshop.
lol yea i realised when normal sockets were exploding with the power i have lol had to get black hardened one with a 6 foot pole and a 300pound dude and thats after chopping the flange of the bolt off with a dremel lol,and to think when i tried it the first time was basic ratchet lol
Yep that’s exactly the point. So the impact hammer will often shift them without fear of snapping. That’s what I have found anyway. You have to remember it’s an old car, some stuff will be impossible to get off without breakage. Plan for that from the start.
All depends how its been looked after, mine comes apart easily as everything has been replaced. Whereas Andy’s car needed the grinder to cut nuts and bolts off
i have been thinking and thinking while i do this sump gasket ,if i use a jack to take the weight of the subframe while i undo the 4 bolts then will that take the strain off them and stop the snap carryon i have no impact gun and am not buying one yet,even if i apply some pressure with the jack would this help ?,if they snap or the bracket bolts snap this will be close to me hitting it with a hammer
I have never had a problem with subframe bolts and a small breaker bar. Hold it up with the jack to take the strain off when undoing, then lower it an inch or two to take bracket bolts off.
i see i changed my jack locations yesterday to where was said and its better for access but seems to be slight denting where jacked i dont like it so i have bricks on the side as well now
am sure they can be done while in situ
Fingers crossed.
It has to be dropped a bit 😉
Just slacken the bolts off. It doesn’t have to be removed but the lower you can get it the better:)
i think he means lower,i would imagine just enough to get those 2 bolts out of the bracket ,if any snap it time to get fucked over from the car again
Oh yeah that’s bound to happen ?
Flexible ratchet spanner will help 😉
I’ve got the normal kind 🙁
yea but what if one wants to take the whole bracket off same thing ?
and then again what if your jacking stands are holding the subframe and car off ground where then to support the weight ?
Axle stands by silk and jack under subframe. Admittedly I was changing subframes in the picture but it shows how to
That’s what I normally do. I’ll have to trust the sills I guess ??
I go on the flat areas on the inside at each end of sills
i see will i still be able to do that with outer sills cut off the car
Yes you can
man i might jack here tonight then as its a nightmare cleaning under there with the stands on the frame its like mineshaft work or some shift
so where exactly to jack there are a few flat parts u know lol
There’s 2 semicircles cut out of the sill. Between them
You don’t need to lower it far to get the bolt out to remove the bracket
The best tool for this job is an impact hammer otherwise known as a rattle gun. These will remove all but the most stubborn bolts in rapid time and save hours of work. They are not expensive either.
hours of work ?
yes because underneath an MR2 almost everything is seized solid. So a tin of Plus Gas and a rattle gun will save hours of arsing around with a wrecking bar and a scaffold pole!
I do have an air gun I’ve not used yet. This could be the perfect job 🙂
to be honest my crank bolt needed a scaffold when i was doing timing belt the rattle gun couldnt touch it
i did not even have the weight to break it i had to get a big dude to crack the crank bolt loose aye its worrying when its old shit
The crank bolt is the toughest job on any car. The torque is about 150lb/ft if I remember rightly. You can get lorry-size rattle guns taking 1 inch sockets but you would rarely need them in a weekend workshop.
lol yea i realised when normal sockets were exploding with the power i have lol had to get black hardened one with a 6 foot pole and a 300pound dude and thats after chopping the flange of the bolt off with a dremel lol,and to think when i tried it the first time was basic ratchet lol
how much torque we talkin on those sub bolts minus the corrosion
Might be 100. A bloody good pull. The problem is they snap off.
So how far does it need dropping? Does anything need disconnecting?
really would not want snapping going on shit thats scary
Yep that’s exactly the point. So the impact hammer will often shift them without fear of snapping. That’s what I have found anyway. You have to remember it’s an old car, some stuff will be impossible to get off without breakage. Plan for that from the start.
All depends how its been looked after, mine comes apart easily as everything has been replaced. Whereas Andy’s car needed the grinder to cut nuts and bolts off
well i aint got an impact gun so what about a chap about with a hammer then try to remove if they snap i will go oriental on it lol
i have been thinking and thinking while i do this sump gasket ,if i use a jack to take the weight of the subframe while i undo the 4 bolts then will that take the strain off them and stop the snap carryon i have no impact gun and am not buying one yet,even if i apply some pressure with the jack would this help ?,if they snap or the bracket bolts snap this will be close to me hitting it with a hammer
I have never had a problem with subframe bolts and a small breaker bar. Hold it up with the jack to take the strain off when undoing, then lower it an inch or two to take bracket bolts off.
right just people here and there scare stories so yes im scared lol ye ill try this tonight i hope to fuck nothing bad happens
I swapped subframes with short breaker bar, 1/2 ratchet and a couple of spanners two trolley jacks and axle stands
i see i changed my jack locations yesterday to where was said and its better for access but seems to be slight denting where jacked i dont like it so i have bricks on the side as well now